November 28, 2014

Follow the Yellow Leaf Road


The curious history of La Fère is sometimes just a step or two away from the street.

Today I took those steps.

Welcome to the remaining ramparts of the city walls.


The "tourist information" plaque was on the corner next to what maybe used to be a moat of some kind. It was so tucked away, I don't think anyone knows it is there.


The plaque simply said that these were the ancient protective walls of the city, and they had been torn down and reconstructed several times throughout history. Now they rest quietly in the background of the village.


It was a little bit muddy, and somewhat wild and broken, but clearly someone cares enough to keep the grass under control and the walls accessible.


More pathways beckoned me onward between these scarred bricks and the slow Oise River.


Take the extra 10 minutes and find a colorful path to follow today.

You may not find a wizard, but there is sure to be magic of some kind.

#whereohwhereisLaFère


The last month of 2014 is upon us.

How do you want to remember it?

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November 13, 2014

Monthly Musings with Marc - November

THE BERLIN SPRINT

The opportunity to travel has been great for us, and, because I am not working right now, I have more free time to explore Europe. So Swags put together a quick 3-day trip for me to one of the Crown Jewels of European destinations: Berlin.

The beautiful Berlin Cathedral in the fall.
When traveling, sacrifices have to be made. Packing less, sitting with random people, and getting outside of your comfort zone are the top three things you must be prepared to give up when hitting the road. Waking up early is not in my comfort zone. When I had to get up at 4:40AM to start my journey, I couldn't help but smile to myself (Swags was still sleeping) because I knew the sacrifice was worth it. Two buses, a plane, and a train later, I was in Berlin and ready to do some exploring.


After a long morning of travel I needed some food. With thirty minutes to spare before meeting my AirBnB host, I wanted something quick, but my desire for quality food will not be sacrificed for time. A little soup shop came to my rescue. The nice lady inside did not speak any English, and my German is nonexistent, but a large bowl of potato soup and a hot mug of green tea made its way to my table. It hit the spot and was so affordable, I decided to come back the next day. With a full stomach I was ready to see the city of Berlin!

Victory Column.
I dropped my stuff off in the room I rented and got some helpful info from my host. After living in Europe for three years, I love public transportation. While most tourists will buy tickets for tours and tour buses, I happily buy a day pass and cruise around on metros, trams, and local buses, all while passing people that paid too much. Berlin has a great public transit system. It was fast, well-connected, and clean.

Kaiser Wilhelm Cathedral.
I used the first afternoon to hop on and off a few buses and trams all while orienting myself to the city and seeing some cool sights.

As I went from one side of Berlin to the other on bus "100," I saw the Berlin Cathedral, Humboldt University (where the Nazis burned books), the Reichstag, the Siegessaule (Victory Column), and Kaiser Wilhelm Cathedral.

With that I had finished my day 1. I headed back to a warm bed to get a good night sleep in order to start early the next day.


Day 2 morning I wanted to get my outlier sights done. That meant jumping a few different trains and a little bit of a walk (until I found the right bus) to see the Schloss Charlottenburg and Olympiastadion. It was a cool but clear morning, and I got a great view of a beautiful old palace and the the sight of the 1936 Olympics and the 2006 World Cup.

Seeing Olympic buildings is becoming a must for me. I love the history; the emotions I feel as I walk around a site that held iconic athletes and the patriotism I can't keep down. I first felt this when visiting the gym in Barcelona that the Dream Team made history in. Here in Berlin it was breathtaking to walk into the stadium that Jesse Owens shattered stereotypes in front of Adolf Hitler as he ran away with 4 gold medals. Also some names that should not be forgotten are: Ralph Harold Metcalfe, Mack Robinson, Archie Williams and John Woodruff. These men were fellow African-American runners that won a lot of medals and helped Owens crush the idea of Aryan supremacy. 

The legendary Olympiastadion.
Remains of the Berlin Wall.
The afternoon took me to even more historical sites: Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall. Parts of the old wall are still up to be seen as a reminder of a time when Communism was trying to maintain its stranglehold on Berlin and Eastern Europe. Checkpoint Charlie was one of the gates that led from the Russian controlled side to the American controlled side of Berlin.

It was crazy to see photos from what the area looked like when the wall was fully constructed and to see the lengths at which the Russians went to to try and keep Berlin under its control.

Before and After: Checkpoint Charlie.

I spent the rest of my day walking the wide, clean, beautiful streets of Berlin.

The architecture of the city is very appealing, as is the food!

Brandenburger Tor.
My last day in Berlin, I revisited some key sites: Brandenburger Tor, Museum Island, and the Reichstag.

I also made sure to walk through the Holocaust Monument, past the site of Hitler's Bunker, and through the huge Tiergarten.

Scenes in the Tiergarten.
All the while I enjoyed some good food, talked to some nice people, and saw some incredible sites.

Berlin was extremely entertaining and exceeded expectations. A great city with an incredible history, definitely a must visit!
  
Schloss Charlottenburg, the only surviving royal palace in Berlin after World War II.
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November 5, 2014

Act 3: The Palais Finale

Finally.

Bonjour, L'Opéra Garnier!
The majority of our week was spent walking around the 8th arrondissement (district) of Paris. My wanders took me around new corners, under beautiful fall leaves, and up to sweeping rooftop views.

Church of Saint Augustin with its unique red crown.
Favorite cat and window combination.
The 8th is full of the "grand boulevards" of Paris that Baron Haussmann implemented into the city layout in the 1850s and 1860s. If you have ever wondered why Paris is so incredibly beautiful, it's because the apartment buildings are gorgeous (in contrast to the 1960s-style apartment buildings in Rome, for example). And the apartment buildings are gorgeous because of Baron Haussmann.

I needed to go to the brown café on the right.
"Café ~ Thé ~ Chocolat" was too hard to resist!
Aunt Daphne, Marc, and I met up for lunch on Rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement. It's a bit tucked away on the metro line 7 from the main tourist attractions, but if you want a street with great Parisian everythings...Rue Mouffetard is the one!

Chocolat viennois at its finest.
Marc cut us loose to go see the Picasso museum, but when we got there, it was still closed for renovations - until Thursday! That's the second time this year I've missed a museum by days (Musée Maillot was the other one during my first weekend back). Now I'm going to be super paranoid and check, double-check, and triple-check that these places are open! 

This is my chic Aunt Daphne.
Best thing about the closed Picasso museum? It is right around the corner from my classic go-to, Musée Carnavalet! I was so thankful to spend a lot more time with my Aunt Daphne in my favorite museum, but especially in her favorite world of art.

After we exhausted every room and hallway of the Carnavalet, we started the trek back to our hotel via a few shopping stops to get ready for our night at the ballet!

I could do this...everyday.
Thanks for the perfect dress, Daphne!
It was another perfect setup when my coach decided we would practice Monday, but not Tuesday, like we normally do. 

Mike and Daphne invited us to [enjoy the premier of the ballet Rain at] the Palais Garnier

The bracketed information was mostly irrelevant. Any chance at going into the opera house was a no-brainer.


Daphne and Mike looking stunning (and small)!
Marc and I have really learned to appreciate the athleticism of dance because of the show "So You Think You Can Dance." I started watching it during my college vacation days (dorms were closed!) when I would stay with my volleyball coach, Kristine. She would play back every dance for however many dancers were in the routine so she could just watch one each time. It was a really intense way to learn about dance, but I've watched nearly every episode since, so it clearly left an impression!


Rain was a contemporary piece with ten dancers and an enormous backdrop curtain of cords. The performers sprinted, leaned, jumped, twirled...maybe every verb you could imagine molecules of rain creating? The costume colors went from shades of light pinks to bright fuschias to neutral tans. 

There wasn't really a storyline; a story wasn't necessary. This choreography centered on the beauty of movement, and how that related to the magic of rain. 

We can learn a lot from this kind of choreography; we don't always have to create incredible adventures in order to make great memories. The adventures can even come to us on their own, like Mike and Daphne did during their Europe trip. 

We will do well to remember that the rhythm and cadence of everyday life can be just as beautiful (if not more) as the spectacular high and low points.

"Instead of wondering when your next vacation is, maybe you should set up a life you don't need to escape from." - Seth Godin

My "vacations" don't really fall into the "escape" category, but I think this quote I came across on Twitter can really hit home for a lot of people.

This European life is that life we don't ever need/want to escape from (or leave, for that matter).

But you're more than welcome to join us on any leg of the journey.

We would like to extend a special thank you to Uncle Mike and Aunt Daphne for loving Paris with us!!!

The Complete Mike & Daphne Series:
Act 1: Paris Sets the Stage
Act 2: Symphony and Sport

MummyTravels

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November 1, 2014

Act 2: Symphony and Sport

Saturday morning brought in Marc from La Fère, and my uncle and aunt in from London. Mike and Daphne were traveling with their church group from Tulsa, Oklahoma, so Daphne understandably opted to stick with the tour itinerary. Mike chose to go along with whatever Marc and I thought sounded good: food.

Jardin des Tuileries.
After checking into our hotel rooms, we walked our way south to Place de la Concorde to take in the 360-degree view of most of Paris. We paused for refreshments in the Jardin des Tuileries before heading over to Angelina's for a late brunch/lunch.

Hey, Eiffel Tower and Obelisk! Oh, and Mike and Marc!
Family is always an interesting dynamic. I don't write about this ever because my honesty can be too direct to some and yet my principles insist on telling the whole truth (remember, once upon a time, I was going to be a journalist). There are a lot of histories and stories, all based on real facts and strong opinions and deep feelings. These ideas and circumstances all contribute to what our relationships look like in the present and what they will eventually become. As the younger generation tier in a family, we don't have any guarantees that our connections with our adult relatives will grow up with us and end up awesome. I'm very grateful that my relationship with my Uncle Mike thrives in a place where we can celebrate what we have in common: good food, good places, and good people.

Meet my Uncle Mike.
I've gone to Angelina's several times before, and have always watched the tantalizing meals pass by...but not this time! Uncle Mike got the 4-course brunch, Marc ordered a delicious omelet, and I enjoyed an avocado heavy salad...and the hot chocolate, of course!

You know it's a great salad when...
you can't see the lettuce.
In the evening, we made our way to the Bastille neighborhood to eat crêpes and go to the symphony at the modern opera house. I don't really identify as a "symphony person," but I was really into reading along the German lyrics to the Schönberg piece during the first half of the concert. The soprano was singing German, the program had the German next to the translated French, and I was processing as quickly as I could into English.

Place de la Bastille in the autumn sunset.
What did I gather? The song was absolutely terrifying, and then tragic. First, the singer was lost in the dark and thought someone or something was trying to attack or take her. Second, she found out this "person/thing" was really her lover, but he's dying and she couldn't do anything to save him. And finally, she realized that he was actually in love with another woman and never felt the same depth of emotion that the singer did for him.

No bad seat in the Opera Bastille!
I think most of the audience was simply appreciating the orchestra, the animated conductor, and the talented singer. I was certainly impressed as well, but my wide-eyed expressions went from afraid to sad to hopeless as I read what was literally happening. By the end of the 40-minute song, I was mentally exhausted from all the translating, and still reeling from the intense emotional journey. Maybe that's why the audience just listens for musical enjoyment....

The reason this week(end) in Paris worked out so well was because my team had a match in the southeastern suburb of Paris in Villejuif. Marc and I had already planned on being here, then when Mike and Daphne told us they'd be in town the exact same weekend - we knew it was meant to be! (Even more so than the random evening in London!)

View from one of my wanders: the rooftop terrace of Le Printemps store.
It was such an incredible highlight to have my uncle and aunt at my volleyball game! A few of my friends, Marc's Simpson basketball team, and my cousin (Mike & Daphne's son, James) had been the only "people from our first lives" to see why we are really here in Europe. It meant so much to me that they were willing to take a chunk out of their vacation to come cheer my team on.

Hey KBFs (Kid Best Friends who are now mostly adults)!
I miss running with these two!
As if having Marc, Mike, and Daphne there wasn't enough, two of my former teammates at La Rochette, the La Rochette club secretary (Jean-Marie was basically the go-to guy for my two years in Melun), Amy the American and her French boyfriend, and the new setter at La Rochette and her husband even came! We were the away team, and we had a full fan section shouting, "Allez! La Fère!" While we were playing, I was sure the French people were saying "Allez," and that my Oklahoma uncle was chanting in his southern accent, "La Fère!" BUT as it turns out, Jean-Marie, ever the ham, was enjoying practicing his American accent while Mike was shouting "Allez!" If you don't believe me, listen for yourself!



We did not win the match. My friends on the Villejuif team (namely, Erika the American and Dorit the Estonian who graciously let me crash at their apartment whenever I tutor in Paris) beat us 3-1. Not that I like losing, but having so many wonderful friends and family there really made it the secondary thing of the day. It was a beautiful mix of family from forever, best friends from France, and American expat volleyballers who have become like family here. Losing a volleyball game is one thing, but I was the winner in so many other ways that it didn't matter.

Les Amies Américaines: Swags, Amy, & Erika!
We're good at volleyball, but better at having fun!
The prelude was Act 1: Paris Sets the Stage.
The finish is Act 3: The Palais Finale.

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