#Mad4Christmas

We are in a strange classification.

Yes, we love Christmas.

Let's go back to Madrid!

No, we don't decorate. At all.

We've been married seven years, and we've never even had a tree.

But, once upon a time, we did get engaged on Christmas day. In a lot of ways, we count Christmas as our anniversary.

Because we do our anniversary differently, too. I don't think we've been together on August 3rd for even half of our seven anniversaries!

Therefore, if we translate Christmas as our anniversary, then it makes a lot more sense why we don't have a tree. Nobody puts up a pine tree for their anniversary!

Christmas has always been a great and wonderful time in both of our lives. Since moving to Europe, it got better in two ways. One, Marc now had a full two weeks off from basketball. And two, we were now in proximity to so many awesome places to visit!

This year, we are repeating our Christmas destination for the first time by returning to Madrid, Spain. Last year, Madrid really charmed us with its sunshine, lively atmosphere, and delicious food.

We had to come back for more!

So even though we may do Christmas a little bit differently than most Americans, and we definitely buck tradition on anniversaries, we are thankful for our time together in some of the coolest places on Earth. It's our version of gift-giving.

Happy Anniversary to us, and Merry Christmas to you!!!

You can follow along SwagVil's #Mad4Christmas experience on Instagram and Twitter!

Continue »

A Very Bavarian Christmas: Round 2

Make sure you get a load of Round 1 before you start this second round!

Welcome to A Very Bavarian Christmas! We are thoroughly enjoying our first Christmas season in Germany, and trying to soak it all in as much as we can. This "Round 2" of Christmas markets includes the magnificent city of Regensburg, our little town of Vilsbiburg, and the many markets of impressive Nuremberg. Lots of "burgs" out this way!

I'm rating each market area on a scale of 1 to 4 for location, size, spirit, and overall impression.

1: Poor
2: Okay
3: Good
4: Awesome

At the end of this post, I will have the entire list of Christmas markets and their ratings for a complete ranking of the best Bavaria has to offer!

Regensburg

Location: 4
Excellent; within five minutes of the train station, we were in the old town center and making our way between pastel buildings to the first market in Neupfarrplatz. All the market areas are a maximum of fifteen minutes from the station, but it's very easy to just make a giant loop and then nothing feels longer than ten minutes away.

Size: 4
Large, finally! I loved the market at Neupfarrplatz for its maze-like feel, the Romantic Market at Thurn and Taxis palace wound around the castle, and even though the Lucrezia and Haidplatz markets were small on their own, altogether it made for a giant market of everything.

The "Regensburger" is my new favorite!

Spirit: 4
Regensburg was all aglow. Really. This city knows how to rock the Christmas market scene! During the early afternoon there were less people, but as soon as work finished around three o'clock, the crowds starting filling in the gaps. I will say that it's a bit bogus for Thurn and Taxis to charge €6,50 to just get into the market, but I will also say that we happened to find a more creative way to get inside for free. It may have involved athleticism and a fence....

Overall Impression: 4
My wonderful Swiss friend and teammate, Julia, and I had an absolutely incredible time wandering around Regensburg like French tourists. We met up with our German teammate, Magda, and just let the magic of Christmas take us away. It may have had a little bit to do with the glühwein, but we will remember the beauty of this day for a really long time.

Average Rating: 4

Vilsbiburg

Location: 4
Five minute walk from train station or ten minute walk from my home; set right in the main street where all the action happens.

Size: 2
Small; it's really only on the one street, plus a small courtyard off to the side (but you have to hunt this area down).

Spirit: 4
Friendly and familiar. Vilsbiburg's Christmas market is only one day in order to draw the best crowd. There was a tent with guitarists singing around a campfire, a live band playing Christmas carols, and Saint Nikolaus came to say hello. In addition, my Rote Raben club had its very own stand with soup, glühwein, and cookies, so all of my volleyball people came out in droves!

Overall Impression: 4
This was the first time I've gotten to legitimately be part of the local Christmas market and it was really special. We had sunshine all afternoon, we talked with teammates and made new friends, sang around a fire together, and even met another random person from California!

Average Rating: 3.5

Nuremberg Partnerstädte (Sister Cities)

Location: 4
Just around the corner from the main Hauptmarkt area, in a more manageable square, and about a ten minute walk from the train station.

Size: 4
While I would have been okay with this market being ten times the size and representing every country in the world, it was the right size for what it offers, with about twenty to twenty-five cities in attendance.

Atlanta, Georgia!

Spirit: 4
Every stand was promoting their individual culture and it was SO COOL. It was like everything I ever wished a school geography fair could have been like, complete with local foods and languages.

Venice, Italy!

Overall Impression: 4
We (Karen, the American I met on the train, and I) walked through this market area at least three times. American candy. Russian nesting dolls. Italian food. French speakers. Spanish culture. Turkish scarves. Sri Lanka. Cuba. Czech Republic. Romania. These are just the places I can remember, and when I return to Nuremberg next December, I will be spending even more time in this space!

Average Rating: 4

Nuremberg Hauptmarkt

Location: 4
Ten minute walk from the train station. It's huge, you can't miss it, and there are even huge lit up signs to lead the way.

Size: 4
FINALLY a Christmas market akin to the giant size I was expecting. Maybe some people prefer their Christkindlmarkt experience to be more intimate, but that's only good for when you know people! In big cities, I want to feel lost in the gifts, scents, and music, and I got lost here!

Spirit: 4
During the weekdays, the Christkind ("Christ child," but really just a teenage girl) makes an appearance, and all the children just "ooh" and "aah." There was also a high-spirited (high-wined) group of Portuguese twenty-somethings all dressed in Santa outfits, armed with guitars, alcohol, and singing Christmas carols. Some people were annoyed; Karen the American and I thought it was awesome.

The Christkind.

Overall Impression: 4
All of my Christmas dreams came true. Only snow could have made it better...but I don't think I actually want to walk around in snow, it would just look pretty.

Average Rating: 4

Nuremberg Kindermarkt

Location: 4
Same general place as the other two markets. Which just makes the Nuremberg experience absolutely perfect.

Size: 4
Great for taking the kids on a loop of markets designed for them. Around the same size as the Partnerstädte market, plus a carrousel, miniature Ferris wheel, and more food options for picky eaters.

Spirit: 4
It's the children's market. Of course, the spirit was totally 100% Christmas. What made it even better were the moving figurines above each and every stand. Santa, reindeer, angels, Hansel and Gretel, manger scenes, you name it!

Overall Impression: 4
Great interactive setting with nearly every stall offering an actual activity for the kids (and parents!) to get their hands on. Lots of music and bright moments in this market, and I may just have to take the hot air balloon on the second level of the carrousel next time!

Average Rating: 4

Final Rankings 2015

9. Munich Marienplatz (2.25)
8. Passau (2.75)
7. Vilshofen (3.5
6. Munich Residenz (3.5)
5. Vilsbiburg (3.5)
4. Nuremberg Kindermarkt (4)
3. Regensburg (4)
2. Nuremberg Hauptmarkt (4)
1. Nuremberg Partnerstädte (4)

I learned something very valuable during these Christmas market expeditions. I really do enjoy solo travel, however, a Christmas market is actually so much better when with friends. Next December, if we find ourselves in Bavaria again, Regensburg and Nuremberg are at the top of my list. Let's go together!

Frohe Weihnachten!

Continue »

48 Hours in Granada

48 Hours in Granada was originally published as a guest post on Adelante blog, but now it is here for good!

Why Granada?

The Andalucía region in the South of Spain attracts many visitors every year to the likes of Sevilla, Málaga, Córdoba, and the white hill towns of Ronda and Arcos de la Frontera. If you’ve been considering Granada as a destination, but maybe it’s not “on the way” to your next place, I encourage you to commit to it and make it a priority to get there anyway! Find those 2 extra days in your itinerary or book your next free weekend for a journey into an entirely different version of Spain.

The last Moorish kingdom to fall in the Spanish Reconquista of 1492, the city still basks in its Arabic glory of the Alhambra. The natural beauty of Granada cannot be missed either, with the snowcapped Sierra Nevadas crowning the edges of the valley. In Granada, you will make friends, whether with the shopkeepers, tea brewers, bodega owners, or just the kind people on the street. Granada is best experienced on foot, as the city center doesn’t allow extra vehicles on the roads, and the crooked turns of the hills invite you to explore hidden paths at your own pace.

DAY 1

Morning

The Alhambra. You’ve come all the way to Granada, and it’s only fitting that you pay tribute to the reason Granada is on the tourist map in the first place. Make sure to grab a delicious pastry at a bakery before heading up the mountain on foot, by bus, or with a taxi. Tackling the Alhambra in the morning guarantees less crowds, less heat, and a much better overall sense of meditation that the Alhambra originally graced upon its visitors. The incredible detail in the tile mosaics, rock work, and designs will impact you with a much deeper reverence for the Moorish empire and their dedication to art, beauty, and peace. Best trick to visiting the Alhambra is to buy your tickets online in advance for a set date and time. Bring the same credit card with you to Granada, and you can withdraw your tickets at any La Caixa ATM.

Afternoon

Meander down from the Alhambra to Plaza Nueva, and pick out a café to enjoy the square and your favorite view. Get the Menú del Día, and ask the waiter to match it with a glass of local wine. This will best prepare you to unwind during your next activity at the Hammam Al-Andalus Granada. This calming environment will refresh your tired feet and mind, and will allow you to literally immerse yourself in the ancient bathing traditions of the Moors. Most hammams and bath houses have defined schedules and routes for the guests to take, but one of the many wonderful aspects of the Hammam Al-Andalus is the freedom to be in whichever rooms or pools one wishes at any given time. Make sure to include an essential oils massage to relax your muscles or a kessa scrub for a thorough exfoliation.

Evening

Continue deeper into the Moorish world on “Tea Street:” Calle Calderería Nueva. Every tea room has interesting aromatic options in addition to the classic Arabic mint tea. Take your time finding the right teteria, in between browsing the colorful Arabic leather goods and decorations. For an Alhambra-themed tea house, try As Sirat for its intriguing and thorough tea selection. I wanted to try at least ten different flavors before finally settling on mango, and my husband drank the flower honey tea. It feels like your own quiet corner inside the grand palace. When you feel shopped out and rested up, ascend into the Sacromonte for gorgeous lit up views of the historical districts of Granada and the next phase of the night.

Late Night

As you make your way uphill from Calle Calderería Nueva to Camino del Sacromonte (via Calle San Juan de los Reyes and Cuesta del Chapiz), absorb the scenes around you. Real life is still happening in these steep cobblestone neighborhoods and cave homes. The Sacromonte is the traditionally gypsy district of Granada, and the flamenco caves draw the tourists from the valley below. Try to book your flamenco show and dinner through the venue itself; many hotels will charge extra for bookings. Zambra María la Canastera, Zambra Flamenco Venta del Gallo, and Jardines de Zoraya all have easy to navigate websites and translated menus. If you like to wing it, you can slip in and out of the side streets of Camino del Sacromonte to pick a less-touristy zambra cave for yourself.


DAY 2

Morning

Stop into a café on the Plaza Bib-Rambla for churros con chocolat before heading out on a hike in the Sierra Nevadas. There are several trail options on Trek Sierra Nevada, from a 2-hour walk on the Cahorros trail to a much more advanced 5-hour climb on the Silleta de Padul. It will be excellent morning exercise, as well as providing incredible morning views of Granada and the surrounding areas. If you can get up early enough, it is the most magnificent sight to watch the city of Granada rise with the sun.

Afternoon

Enjoy great and filling Spanish paella at La Parrala or in one of the many cafés in the walking zones behind the Granada Cathedral. After refueling with a “café solo” (espresso) or “cortado” (short coffee with milk), take a pleasant afternoon stroll through the city center, observing the awe-inspiring Gothic and Renaissance architecture of the Cathedral & Royal Chapel and Monastery of San Jerónimo.

Evening

Fall captive to the Spanish siesta - you’ll probably need it after hiking the Sierra Nevadas! It can feel strange to take a nap in the very late afternoon/early evening, but it really is the best time to rest in Spain because not very many sights or restaurants are open. A couple of hours of sleep will rejuvenate your Spanish spirit, and you will wake up just in time to get ready to go out for dinner and enjoy the night for as long as you want! Alternatively, if you’re feeling especially ambitious, you can hike-wander into El Albayzín for more great views of Granada and tucked away homes with beautiful gardens.

Late Night

For an amazing tapas and wine experience in Granada, go meet Fuensanta at La Bodeguilla de Al Aldo. Walk up around 10:00pm on a Saturday night, and you will barely get through the door, it will be so packed. When you finally do manage to get inside, a dark-haired lady will come down the steps of her two-tiered bar to see what you need. Everyone in the bodeguilla has a genuinely wonderful time together, eating, drinking, talking, laughing, being together. The energy is unmatched in the big city cafés of Madrid and Málaga; this is an intimate setting with intimate friends, and you will get to be a part of it. Just remember; after what you think will be your last glass of wine, Fuensanta will probably pour you another one!


Granada can be experienced on the surface in 2 days easily. But it is likely that you will fall in love with this beautiful place, where Moorish culture and history are showcased through a Spanish lens. After climbing to new heights, soaking in the hammam, and tasting the delights of Granada, you will want to plan your next stay to last much longer than just 48 hours.

For all the Granada photos, visit Granada: Do Not Fall!

48 Hours in Granada on iOS & Android.

Find the rest of my navigational GPSmyCity app article cities HERE.

Continue »

A Very Bavarian Christmas: Round 1

Christmas season is in full swing! The snow may have melted, but the spirit is very much alive and well. The bunches of markets I've decided to get to this year are mostly from internet research. If there are any specific markets you've loved in the Bavarian region, please share in the comments, and I will try to get to those markets as well!

This first round of Christmas markets belongs to Munich, Passau, and Vilshofen an der Donau (Vilshofen on the Danube).

The second round will include some smaller towns and either Nuremberg or Salzburg. Has anyone been to either, or both, and could make a recommendation between the two? I can only go to one this year!

I'm rating each market area on a scale of 1 to 4 for location, size, spirit, and overall impression.

1: Poor
2: Okay
3: Good
4: Awesome

Welcome to 2015's A Very Bavarian Christmas!

Munich Marienplatz

Location: 4
Excellent; very connected to the Munich subway and train station.

Size: 2
Medium; in the square and spread out down random side streets.

Spirit: 1
Crowded and chaotic.

Overall Impression: 2
It was way too crowded on a Saturday; we were all bumping into each other. The food was okay, but hard to enjoy it with cars speeding by. Every half hour or so a group of guys dressed in some kind of traditional Christmas outfits marched and drummed through, but there was no music in the square.

Average Rating: 2.25

Munich Residenz

Location: 4
Good; next to Odeonplatz, connected to subway station.

Size: 3
Small; enclosed inside a courtyard.

Spirit: 3
Warm and inviting. More families than tour groups. There was so much care put into the miniature Christmas trees in every corner.

Overall Impression: 4
Very intimate setting inside the castle-like courtyard with live music and "magical" (moving) nativity settings. Much more appetizing food options than Marienplatz and less commercialized feel.

Average Rating: 3.5

Passau at Dom St. Stephan

Location: 2
About a fifteen to twenty minute walk from the train station, up and down hills. Actual location of the market in the cathedral's plaza is great.

Size: 3
Medium; packed entirely into the area in front of St. Stephan's.

Spirit: 3
This rating could have been higher maybe, but the never-ending rain put a major damper on things. On the bright side, it lessened the size of the crowd on the weekend!

Overall Impression: 3
I don't think Passau's market was nearly as grand as it had been talked up to be, but there were decent covered areas for eating and drinking. The Sunday mass inside the cathedral served as a great respite from the rain and impressive backdrop to the markets. I had an amazing orange spiced cider and meat skewer here, though, which score points in and of themselves.

Average Rating: 2.75

Vilshofen an der Donau Floating Market

Location: 3
Only a ten minute walk through an adorable town on your way to the Danube (Donau is the German name).

Size: 3
Small; one lane of markets and one boat filled with vendors on the Danube.

Spirit: 4
Vilshofen is clearly a very special place. It was filled mostly with locals excited for the Christmas season and only a spattering of tourists. Open fire pits, the sharing of umbrellas, and friendly artisans and bakers.

Overall Impression: 4
Completely charming! Walking along the Danube to a Christmas market is a brilliant concept, and it is a very warm and welcoming village. There is a nativity scene with real sheep and donkeys, delicious snacks, beautiful craft options, and even a food tent where I was finally able to dry off and enjoy my first glühwein of the season.

Average Rating: 3.5


Coming Up: Regensburg, Vilsbiburg, and either Nuremberg or Salzburg!

Which German Christmas markets have you been to and do you recommend?

Continue »