December 30, 2013

Châteaux Hopper Passes,* Please

This post had the potential to be three - nay - NINE blog entries because we went to nine huge and amazing landmarks. But I'm choosing to overwhelm you with photos of all of them and the quickest versions I can muster of "what you need to know." Please, do enjoy our annual Christmas trip of our first (and definitely not last) venture into the châteaux of the Loire Valley.

*NOTE: There is no such thing as a Châteaux Hopper Pass. Feel free to ask and sound a bit ridiculous.


Château de Chambord


Welcome to our home?
Most incredible roof line I have seen in all of my European travels so far. Magnificent detailing on the windows, chimneys, stained glass, and cupolas! It was super muddy everywhere, but we still enjoyed our crazy photo shoot. We didn't go inside due to time constraints, but we heard later that an epic staircase awaits us. No harm in returning.

Jes' iPhone takes way better photos than our Apple products. Most of these photos are HERS.

Château Royal d'Amboise


Rain or shine: WE SMILE.
Actual castle/fortress overlooking the river. Most "castles" (châteaux) in France are just massive ornate mansions, so it was cool to go into what we Americans consider a real castle with a dungeon, turrets, crazy staircases, and archer vantage points. The weather was really bad here, so we didn't get to wander through the gardens which had some ancient ruins. We are planning on making the lovely town of Amboise our home base for our next Loire trip, whenever that will be!

The small chapel on the left is where Leonardo da Vinci is buried!

Clos Lucé


Who's that girl? It's Jes!
Leonardo da Vinci's final home was about a fifteen minute walk from the grand château in Amboise. The interior was very beautiful, and paid a wonderful homage to da Vinci's genius by displaying 3D models of his drawings. We were even more pleased to find those same mini-models in full life-size in the gardens! The grounds are like an engineer's amusement park dream come true. This château isn't always remembered on Loire trips, but if you have anyone in your group at all interested in inventions and how ahead of his time da Vinci was, this "da Vinci park" is a must see.

Leonardo's backyard has grand picnic potential.

Abbaye de Fontevraud



I'm getting really good at accidentally finding extremely famous historical figures' tombs (William the Conqueror was the first "stumble-upon"). All I knew about this abbey was "something about Eleanor of Aquitaine," which really is just a mental picture of Katharine Hepburn from The Lion in Winter. Turns out she is actually buried here (Eleanor, not Katharine), along with her husband, King Henry II of England, and her ultra famous crusading son (thanks to Robin Hood), Richard the Lionheart! It is truly a feat of history that the family's "graveyard" survived 800 years of religions, wars, and even the abbey's stint as a prison after the Revolution.

Château d'Azay-le-Rideau





We did not go inside this château because we really just wanted to see the outside, and extravagant château costs aren't really a part of our budget. But if you ever do want to go into the park, the castle sits on a man-made island in the river. On a calm day, the dammed up river reflects the château flawlessly, giving Azay its fame and tourists.

Château de Loches



We were desperate for bathrooms and refreshments at this stage of the journey, so Loches did not receive its due justice. Loches is the medieval city where Joan of Arc rode to meet with the hiding French dauphin (king-to-be) and to encourage him to take back the country. There are three great aspects to this attraction: the ancient keep, the church, and the lived-in castle. Must come back.

Château de Chenonceau


There should be more buildings built like this one. Clearly, if bridges can last for hundreds of years over rushing rivers, then bridges with rooms and hallways and windows built on top of them can be even more awesome. This is THE château. Come to France and let Chenonceau sweep you off your feet.

Why, yes, I do believe I would like to take my tea by the river today. In my room, of course!


Château de Blois


We found the keys to Blois!
We ate a delicious lunch in the fun-to-pronounce town of Blois (say bluh-wah, then laugh out loud) on our last day in the Loire. There were so many large and imposing castle-like buildings that it was difficult for us to distinguish between the churches, castles, and towers of tall stuff. So we just drove across the river and took pictures of ALL of it!

I can pick out at least five different château-ish buildings.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres


This is my most pious face.
The Chartres Cathedral was imposing enough just standing there. We walked in, and five minutes later, the most intense organ music ever started playing and set the tone for the rest of our walk through. It was a bit creepy to sneak around a church of that size with the haunting minor key melody blaring through our ears. Add the several headless statuettes decorating the choir behind the pulpit, and my full medieval experience was complete.

Et, Voilà!


It was a fantastic weekend together! The Loire has so many beautiful scenic roads; we saw more homes, barns, and wineries built into the cliffs than any of us had ever seen before. We bonded over being touristically [future word] cold and hungry, practicing our French and Hebrew, and posing as 24-year-old students to get into the sites cheaper. (And yes, it did work.) We enjoyed the freedom of driving around our little rental car, finding new places to experience, and making fun memories like we always do.


It's a good life to live in which we get to do what we do best.

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December 7, 2013

27 > 22

We should have done this a long time ago.

Right after graduation, we should have tossed caution to the wind, laughed at our silly sports jobs, smiled at our nonexistent bank accounts, and flown to Europe together.

THEN (Santa Monica) and NOW (Paris)
Why didn't we?

We were way too serious for 22-year-olds. I was getting married and starting my camp directing job. Amanda was moving across the entire country and starting her intense college coaching gig. There was "no time" to take that epic American road trip we had talked about for three years, let alone pay for airplanes to take us over an ocean to another continent!


But I'm really glad we got to be in Paris 5 1/2 years after graduation. There were no panic attacks from getting lost, we didn't miss out on anything important, and instead of "finding ourselves" (as most post-grad trips aim to do), we were able to enjoy being ourselves to the fullest as the best friends that we used to be, we've become, and will always be.

Shamelessly copying their vantage point.
We went all over Paris! We enjoyed the yummy treats at the Christmas market on the Champs-Elysées, strolled through Notre Dame, twisted between the crooked streets in Le Marais, marched around Montmartre, and sipped our Angelina's cocoa most happily. We have such a rhythm with visiting friends now that we have the obvious "hits," then we move to the more seasonally and personally tailored adventures. Amanda and Marc got to experience the overwhelming Salon des Vins (literally over 1,000 vineyards present their wines in booths in the huge convention center). Amanda bravely tackled the Louvre and Versailles on her own (we reserve the right to pass on these massive tourist destinations).

The best two moments were our Thanksgiving dinner with our French friends, and the entire Monday spent wandering through every corner of Paris together. The family I babysat for last year graciously invited Marc and me - which then became plus Amanda, and plus Amy - to celebrate Thanksgiving at their Parisian flat this year. We were so wrapped up in the greatness of the idea that when reality set in, all we could do was laugh.


False reality: We've had Thanksgiving dinner every year our entire lives, of course we can show them how great it is! There will be tons of food, smiles, and happiness!


True reality: "Can you make pie?" "No. Do you know how to make stuffing?" "I think it comes in a box?" "Okay, hopefully Amanda and Amy know more than we do."

Marc and I created a do-able menu that was functional for France and blended with the traditional American fare. He made his family's always very tasty fried cauliflower, and I made mashed potatoes for more than two people for the first time in my life. My extra special Thanksgiving assignment in the past? Place cards. Don't hate on my sweet handwriting skills.

Stephane and baby cheering on
Stephanie's duck carving.
But despite our shortcomings and setbacks as American young adults, the four of us were able to proudly showcase one of our American holidays to our great French friends - who thankfully provided the delicious duck for the main dish! You can read more about "what happened to the pies" on Amy's blog here.

The good news is we really did end up with tons of food (some good, some interesting), smiles and laughs (little 3-year-old Liam loves having company, so he kept singing about putting his friends in the toilet, washing machine, and trash can), and happiness (especially after Amy was able to lull the baby to sleep with her magical powers). Stephane and Stephanie are such great friends to have because they appreciate speaking English with us and continuing the dialogue on the differences between French and American cultures.

Raclette is AWESOME.
On my full Monday off from volleyball, we made a large half-circle around Paris. We started in the Left Bank, making our way through the streets to Rue Mouffetard for lunch. We found a quaint French cuisine restaurant where we had so much raclette and chocolate fondue that we couldn't even finish all of it. Next door we stumbled into a cute boutique and bought matching sweaters. It's allowed, and actually encouraged, when you live thousands of miles away from each other.

We took a short peek at the Roman amphitheater before hopping onto the metro to head up to L'Opéra Garnier. I kept telling Amanda that I hoped the stage would be closed to tourists for rehearsals because then we could sneak upstairs and watch, as Tanya discovered a few years back. The supervisors in the opera house are few and far between, but we were kept from sliding through the staircase door by lazy tourists taking breaks on the lush red velvet benches. We patiently explored the other parts of the opera's halls before checking one last time - and we were in the clear! Note to remember: it's not the next floor, or the one after, it's the 3rd floor from the door where there is a double swing door entrance to the seats. We breathlessly and silently enjoyed some ballet for about 30 minutes before the director ended rehearsal. This is the best way to see the Parisian ballet - like spies. (Honestly, that's the best way to do anything.)


After our high-class mission, we made our way to a patisserie called Dalloyau, which I still cannot pronounce. Dall-o-yow? Doll-o-yo? We learned of this exquisite place during our neighbor's wine and cheese party a few weeks back. One of their friends is a part of the Dalloyau dynasty, and he brought the most beautiful desserts to the party, so I just had to check it out. The Dalloyau patisserie is actually very famous in France because it was the chosen patisserie for the royal family (yes, like Louis XIV). Dalloyau invented the "Opera cake," which is a must-have for chocolate and coffee lovers. I found My Macaron: coconut and chocolate cappings with caramel filling: perfect.



We finished our beautiful day at my favorite Eiffel Tower area along the Seine, across the Bir-Hakeim bridge. We had the whole bridge to ourselves this time, and the bank was deserted like normal. The sunset could not have been more perfect, and we watched the Eiffel Tower begin to glow at dusk while we waited for the hourly sparkle.



While, yes, we could have done this a long time ago, I am much happier we did it now. 27 looks way better on us than 22 did, for sure.

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On Cats and Volleyball, Congrats


CATS
Three weeks ago I went to Paris' first cat café. Le Café des Chats had better food than I expected, but I wished the cats had been, well, sleepier. I made it out of there alive, despite two scratch and two bite attempts. The coolest part of the restaurant is the building itself, especially the medieval basement, complete with arched coves and chandeliers. I was slightly relieved I wasn't enamored of it; I am officially not in line to become the next crazy cat lady in the family.


VOLLEYBALL
My previous blog posting couldn't have had better timing. I'm thankful I was able to put my "bottom of the barrel" thoughts into cyberspace (and if that's my bottom of the barrel, I realize it's not that bad). We cleaned up the team in Illacaise in three sets straight, and winning felt nice! We struggled against Rennes the next week, winning the first two sets, then losing the next three. But after winning one match in 3 sets (equals 3 points on the board), and losing a match in 5 sets (equals 1 point on the board), we are at least getting points now, and digging out of the hole! We still have one more match to work on before the Christmas break, and then we will set our sights on the spring half of the season.

CONGRATULATIONS
To the Redding Christian High School Girls' Volleyball Team for making it all the way to the section title championship match! I'm so proud of all of you, and very happy for Coach Tammie. I can't wait to work you at camp again next summer!

To The Master's College Women's Volleyball Team for getting all the way to the NAIA National Tournament Quarterfinals! Top 8 in the nation, YES! Congrats to Coach Bobby, and his great group of girls! I'm a proud alumna right now; thank you for working so hard, everyday, all season long!


We are still riding out the great weather; only in the 40s Fahrenheit, and it's December! Loving the clear blue winter skies!

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