Fast forward nearly nine years later, and, while I've been back to Salzburg more times than I can count now (LOVE THAT), I hadn't been back on the tour yet.
But amazing things start to happen when unexpected opportunities arise!
So, off we went, back onto the Panorama Tour of The Sound of Music!
We had a beautiful day, wonderful company, and a fabulous tour guide!
Thanks, Dad & Mom, for wanting to return to the one of the best movies OF ALL TIME, and also to our friend, Melissa, for joining us for our very Do-Re-Mi day!!!
I don't know WHY every time I go to Paris, there is this unbelievable amount of magic - luck - serendipity - awesomeness!!! I just know there IS. So, I keep going back, and the craziest and best things keep happening. I wouldn't have it any other way. I still love Paris like I did before I ever went, and I only fall more deeply in love every time I go back. Favorite place on earth, and here are just a few more reasons why. (I have resisted from expanding these five incredible days into five separate posts!!!)
DAY 1 All Mine for Walking
I lose track of everything except my sense of direction when I'm walking Paris.
I wandered from Montmartre, down to the Opéra district, through Rue de Rivoli to Place de la Concorde, all the way to the Eiffel Tower, where I took a nap before it started raining.
I took cover in the Petit Palais museum, where I lost my umbrella in the men's bathroom (because the women's one was closed!), only to miraculously have it be turned in to the coat check an hour later when I finally realized it was missing.
I ended the "Day of Paris My Way" by heading through the Tuileries, paying homage to the injured Notre Dame, and finished in the Latin Quarter with a delicious dinner with music at Chez Papa Jazz. Yes. This was one day.
DAY 2 Unbelievable Reunion in Melun
Monique and I had are usual meet-up at the best crêperie in the world. I also met with Francis, a dear friend who is now in charge of managing the team at my former club, La Rochette. These meetings would have been plenty of happy reuniting, but there was a huge surprise that happened purely by accident.
The BEST fondant au chocolat chef in the world -- who I legitimately believed I would never see again after he left Melun in 2012, let alone have that incredible dessert -- was back in Melun. I saw him walking out of the door to his old restaurant and my jaw fell on the floor. I confirmed Fred's resurrection with Monique, and after we had crêpes, we had THAT fondant au chocolat and I actually cried. I'm not sorry if that makes me ridiculous, because if you think that, then you've just never eaten anything Fred has made before.
DAY 3 Canal, Cats, and Characters
I think the canals in Paris don't get nearly the attention they deserve. I spent the morning having my breakfast at the Bassin de la Villette and just enjoying doing nothing.
It was an important rest before I walked more of Paris to meet my first cat of the day, the bakery cat. I think the owner actually brings their cat to work everyday and it hangs out, playing with the glass door and the customers. I wandered around the Square du Temple and realized that this was the home neighborhood of my book character. May not seem very interesting at the moment, but it breathed so much life into my heroine and I am so excited to write about this quartier in my book!
Finally, I reached the Ateliers des Lumières, where I met up with Kathleen to watch the incredible art presentation on Van Gogh and Japanese paintings. I think we watched it three times!
Later, I took the train out to Saint-Maur-des-Fossés to see Amy and the second cat of the day. We had sushi, I scared the cat to death, and I got to see a few other French friends as well before heading back into Paris for the night.
DAY 4 Spontaneous Wedding
As if this trip wasn't full enough, earlier in the week I had contacted my friend Ciera to see if she would be in Paris at the same time. She said, "Yes, I'm here! And will you come to my wedding on Saturday?" OUI x MILLE.
This was one of the most fun days EVER. It was the perfect mix of French and English, the perfect party size of about fifteen guests, and the perfect French appetizers, food, wine, champagne, desserts, you name it! Also, thanks to Kathleen for being nearly the same size as me and letting me borrow this entire outfit.
I had felt a little bit like I was crashing the party (as her former roommate's/best friend's (Alex) brother's (Marc) wife), but we came to realize that, aside from Ciera's parents, I had actually known Ciera the longest out of everyone else there!
Somehow, all of the bride's friends had also coincidentally worn navy, so we declared BRIDESMAIDS and had a smashing good time the entire day.
DAY 5 Volleyball, Soccer, and Dance
To complete this wild batch of days, I was able to join two of my French friends, Sana and Juliette, for a volleyball tournament in Saint-Cloud. The Saint-Cloud area of Paris that also happened to include the stadium Parc des Princes where the Women's World Cup just also happened to be going on the same week.
And, of course, the night before the USA/Chile match, my friend, Kathleen, was guiding one of her bike tours when a couple offered her an extra free ticket to the game that they couldn't use. Kathleen had already been gifted a free ticket from another friend who was visiting, so, lo and behold, this new free ticket ended up in my possession!
Going to see the USA Women's Soccer team play was an experience like no other. The stadium was electric, there was thousands of Americans everywhere, chanting, "U-S-A!" and we scored three goals to take the win, to boot! To top this trip off with the most hilarious evening, Kathleen and I had a delicious dinner before attempting to meet her friends along the Seine.
Instead of finding her friends, we were accosted by probably the funniest French guy ever, who proceeded to fall in love with Kathleen. His jokes were hysterical, his friends were nice, and he decided to dance with Kathleen along the river. I talked with an interesting Spanish girl while Gregoire gregariously romanced Kathleen, and it was nothing short of a miracle that we made it back to Kathleen's apartment unaccompanied. However, if they end up married someday, I was there when it all happened!
I don't think Z-town is making anyone's "Top 10" list of anything anytime soon, but if you've got a spare couple of days, Zagreb is sure to provide a really great experience!
I will have another post about Zagreb and how wonderful it was to me later this summer. Until then, here are the bones of the city, all within easy walking distances and passing tons of delicious meal and snack options.
The best vantage point to start a tour around Zagreb is for sure at Lotrscak Tower. You can climb up to the tower or take the funicular train. Either way, once you're there, pay the cheap entrance fee to make your way up the stairs inside the tower to the top. Every landing area has another set of historical placards and opens the history of Zagreb from the top of the city.
Be smart with your timing; the cannon in the tower will wail a huge BOOM at noon everyday!
Turning the corner from the tower, you'll arrive at the Museum of Broken Relationships. This. Is. An. Extremely. Emotional. Experience. It's wild, it's tragic, it's hilarious, it's ironic, and I've never been to a museum this interesting. I thought it would be really kitschy and pathetic (like, "Boo-hoo, my ex was mean!"), but instead it was a very real and very deep dialogue from real people who went through any and every kind of broken relationship: romantic, familial, friendship, death, you name it. I think the "artifacts" may rotate often, but, if you go, take a moment at the life-size real door with notes on it. I wish this was some kind of tradition in every culture.
Around another corner and you'll be at the door of the Klovicevi Dvori Gallery. This museum houses all sorts of eclectic art and design pieces, I just didn't have time to go during my visit. However, walk down a narrow street and it will bring you to one of the main landmarks of Zagreb: St. Mark's Church. This darling chapel has a fabulous patriotic roof with the Croatian flag and the coat of arms of Zagreb. It is indeed small, but the square is large, and it's fun to imagine the huge markets that used to take place there.
Meandering downhill will lead you to the Stone Gate. This is kind of an L-shaped tunnel that winds you down to the next level of the city below. It's more of a shrine than a passageway, where you can light a candle and offer a prayer while even touring the city. Stumbling upon a group praying or singing together at the Stone Gate happens more often than not.
One of my absolute favorite experiences in Zagreb was at the Zagreb 80's Museum. What a great and fun idea!!! Not only is it cool because of the idea and title, but even more so because once you're inside, you have full access to all the exhibits, costumes, accessories, games, you name it! I want to have all my birthday parties in this crazy apartment-turned-museum!
The beautiful Cathedral of Zagreb is next on our list. The square around the cathedral is bright and lively with locals, school groups, and tourists alike. In the early spring, it was decorated with lovely flower arrangements and the atmosphere in the sunshine was wonderful. I spent a very nice nap on the benches outside in the nearby park, and it was so peaceful and relaxing.
Going southward, the Croatian Sports Museum is just off the main square of Ban Josip Jelačić. Soccer, is, of course, huge in Croatia, especially after their World Cup finals appearance against France in 2018. Most of the population enjoys being outside and participating in many sports, so this museum gives insight into that part of the culture, and can be a huge hit with people in your group that may not be really into the typical museum fare.
On a more serious note, The Memorial Centre of the Rocket Attacks on Zagreb 1991/1995 is also just down the street. If you want to dig deeper into the cultural contexts, southwest of the main square lies the Croatian National Theatre, the Academy of Dramatic Arts, the Mimara Museum filled with classical paintings (some are real and some are copies!), and the Croatian State Archives.
Zagreb is full of interesting attractions and museums - this just lists the main highlights! Hopefully, you have time to experience all of what Zagreb has to offer. If not, then you are at least on the right track to figuring out what you and your group are going to enjoy the most!
Best day trip from Zagreb is absolutely to Plitvice Lakes!!!
I worked and played for a very full eight days in the south of France Occitanie region in April.
First of all, I had known the regions of France were going to be condensed, but had totally forgotten about it. So, most of the time I was on my trip, I was happily enjoying what I believed to be the Languedoc...what used to be the Languedoc, apparently!
I was mostly in the departments (think of regions as states, and departments as counties) of Aude and Hérault, hence the post title. And, yes, "Aude" is pronounced like "ode," also hence the post title!
There were so many great places that I got to see, so it was best to mark them all down on a list here, which will be updated as the posts are posted with their direct links.
I have to give a huge shout-out to my fabulous French friend, Adeline, who researched and planned half of these destinations for us to profiter from the best possible weather, walks, and food!
Madrid may not be on the list of top ten European destinations for non-Europeans, but that doesn't mean it's not worthy of a lengthy visit! Instead, Madrid attracts its own kind of visitors: foodies, sunshine-in-the-park types, and art lovers.
Strolling through several art museums can make for an expensive walk! However, Madrid has great options for free museums and even offers affordable moments for their more fancy museums as well.
So no matter what your budget - or time frame - you can definitely find the right place at the right time to experience grand art and culture in Madrid, Spain.
*There are TONS of discounts and free tickets at most museums for students under the age of 25 and/or children. Go to the links provided for more details. This is NOT an affiliate post!*
*My husband, Marc, and I did all three of these museums during their free times. Definitely make sure to line up early, as you don't want to end up waiting during the entire free opening time! All three house a variety of art pieces and deserve your time.*
Cultural Ministries Museums
The Hidden Gems
Museo Cerralbo: FREE Saturday from 14:00-15:00, Thursday from 17:00-20:00, Sunday from 10:00-15:00, and April 18, May 18, October 12, and December 6. Museo del Romanticismo: FREE Saturday from 14:00-20:30, Sunday from 10:00-15:00, and April 18, May 18, October 12, and December 6. Museo Sorolla: FREE Saturday from 14:00-20:00, Sunday from 10:00-15:00, and April 18, May 18, October 12, and December 6. Casa Museo Lope de Vega: ALWAYS FREE, but advanced reservation for the tours is necessary. Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas: FREE from July 1 to August 31, late on Thursday, Sunday, Saturday from 14:00-15:00, and April 18, May 18, October 12, and December 6. Museo Lázaro Galdiano: FREE Tuesday-Saturday from 15:30-16:30, Sunday from 14:00-15:00
*I have been to the Romanticismo and Cerralbo museums and both were FANTASTIC!!! Large enough to be interesting, but small enough to manage and full of intricate items from bygone days. I will do the rest of the museums on this list on my next trip to Madrid because they were located a bit further from where we were staying this last time.*
*ALL of these landmarks are stunningly gorgeous and located in great areas of Madrid. The real star of the city is always Retiro Park, and I highly recommend renting a rowboat on the lake to enjoy the sunny day. I like to pair these sites with a nearby museum for a fabulous morning, then head to a delicious restaurant before the afternoon siesta.*
The real treat in Madrid is getting to experience Spanish city life, and the museums that store and display the cultural heartbeat of this great city are a huge part of this experience. I have loved every museum I've been to in Madrid and am looking forward to finding more beautiful places in one of my favorite European cities the next time I visit!
YES, I AM SHOUTING FROM THE TOP OF MY LUNGS BECAUSE IT WAS ONE OF THE MOST INCREDIBLE EXPERIENCES OF MY LIFE.
Let me try to calm down and explain it better to you.
I traveled to London for a long weekend to spend time with Marc's sister, Alex, and her husband, Cory, who are currently living near Cambridge.
I realize Cambridge is not that close to London.
But with a few expensive train rides, anything is possible!
There were four parts to this weekend, all of which could stand on their own as great moments. I'll take you through the three others before I get to gushing about Tommy Steele and Glenn Miller. [OMG. Focusing.]
Honorable Mention... Tea!
My adorable and delicious tea picnic came from B Bakery (also known as "Brigit's Bakery") in Covent Garden. It was August, I wanted to walk around, and the picnic was a fantastic idea. Until it started raining and never stopped. I did have an umbrella, and I did find a covered door stoop, and I did enjoy my tea time, much to the amusement of the British people passing by.
I could have totally let the rain ruin my tea picnic, but instead, I just accepted it as London luck. I mean, how many other opportunities will I really have to spread clotted cream and strawberry jam onto a scone outside in the middle of a downpour?
Third Place... Wine!
Alex and I got to meet up with Michael, one of the Vilas' "umpteenth umpth cousins" (there are hundreds of them, and this one, we think, is a 4th cousin). Michael has lived in London for years, and he suggested we meet at Terroirs.
We enjoyed some great wine, of course, but then also the very creative and tasty share plates while catching up on each other's news and stories. Food in London is always impressive and Terroirs follows that standard excellently.
Second Place... Church!
Somewhat spiritually incorrect, but this is just the honest truth (and at least it's ranked ahead of wine, haha). Plus, Pastor Tim Chaddick is still young and not quite as limited edition as the winner of this blog post. Back story: when I was in college north of Los Angeles, my friends' and my favorite church to road trip to was Reality LA in Hollywood.
Pastor Tim is a very gifted speaker and communicator, and he always just lays the truth down in a direct and transparent way. His Easter sermon circa 2008 is still the best sermon I've ever heard. Anyway, Tim Chaddick and his family have ended up at Reality London, and I knew it was time to wrap a Sunday into a trip to visit Alex and Cory. It was everything Reality LA had been ten years ago and more, embellished with British accents and expat friendliness.
I will NOT apologize for FREAKING OUT. I planned this weekend around seeing Alex and Cory, having at least one tea time, going to Reality, and taking in some random theatre show. I had just been on a high from seeing Mamma Mia 2: Here We Go Again!, and thought Mamma Mia! might be a fun idea. Thought about Aladdin, pretended Hamilton was an available option, and Alex just told me straight up: "Christy, pick whatever you want because I probably won't be that into it anyway."
I'll take a carte blanche no matter how it comes! I went through the listings once again, and I read, "Tommy Steele in The Glenn Miller Story." You might be asking, "Who's Tommy Steele?" but I was asking, "Who's Glenn Miller?"
Because, people, Tommy Steele is in two of my favorite old movie musicals ever: The Happiest Millionaire and Finian's Rainbow. One involves frozen crocodile pets and the other a magical pot of gold. Both are perfect.
After I figured out who Glenn Miller was and that his entire genre of big band and swing music is exactly part of my journey of discovering my most adored kind of music, my next question was, "Wait. How is Tommy Steele still alive?!"
He's 81 years old and still performing live on the West End. See what I mean by limited edition?
Plus, his run of The Glenn Miller Story was already scheduled and planned to last just seven weeks in London.
And 9-year-old little Christy Swagerty who remembered Tommy Steele's hilarious Irish butler and leprechaun movie parts already had plans to be in England that weekend.
If you can try to imagine even half of what I was feeling during this show, then you'll know it was overwhelming. Tommy Steele appeared on stage and my eyes filled with tears. It was being in the presence of a legend. His dynamic spirit and contagious energy filled the entire London Coliseum and he interacted with the audience and costars alike with ease, grace, and generosity. His enormous smile radiated all 81 years of loving to make people laugh and sing. Also of note was how funny it was to see such an old man "running" (more like trotting) across the stage during various numbers. But Tommy Steele could hack it!
Besides Tommy Steele's magnanimity, the production itself was awesome, of course. The stage was set with lighted arches that could become any color to fit the scene and number. The choreography included both tap and swing dancing, all wrapped into perfectly selected vintage costumes, tuned expertly to Glenn Miller classics like "Chattanooga Choo Choo," "Moonlight Serenade," "Pennsylvania 6-5000," and my personal favorite, "In the Mood." Pleasantly surprising was the inclusion of very famous "At Last," which turns out was written for one of Glenn Miller's films, Sun Valley Serenade (that I made Marc watch with me after I returned home).
Never mind the fact that Glenn Miller died during World War II at the all-too-soon age of just 40 years old and Tommy Steele was acting as a man half his age. If anything, it made it a little bit sillier and more nostalgic. Apparently, Tommy Steele was inspired by Glenn Miller's music on the radio as a child and was thrilled to play this part on the stage because it was all of his favorite music!
During the intermission, the people sitting in our row said to us as we walked by, "Aren't you two a little too young for this show?" After we responded with laughter and that I liked the music, etc., the second question came quickly, "And...you're American?!" One of my beloved pastimes: being different and a tad bit confusing for people to figure out.
I held it mostly together until the end, then Glenn Miller's character died and was shown playing his music in heaven while his grieving wife looked on. At that point I was a mess of tears, dancing, and sob-singing. Granted, this is not a sad show; it's a definitely happy show with happy songs and happy dancing that just happens to have a sad ending. However, ever the entertainer, Tommy Steele resurrected for the encore like a true champ, performing three more songs with the audience to sing along. It's impossible to feel sad when shout-singing and jazz-hand-dancing to "Sing Sing Sing" with thousands of strangers and the one and only Tommy Steele.
This theatre experience ranks even above my first shows of Phantom of the Opera and Jersey Boys. It was such an unbelievable and overwhelming combination of the music, the Tommy Steele, the story, the dancing, the singing, the old movies, being in London again, summer nights, and all the depth and memories that naturally accompany each of those things. I felt my mind and emotions being stretched in all sorts of wonderful directions, and, ultimately, it was phenomenal because I loved and learned in every minute of it.
Bilbao, Spain, is home to one of three fantastic Guggenheim museums (the other two are in New York City, USA, and Venice, Italy). I haven't been to the other two, but my trip to Bilbao was sure to include this one. However, the city of Bilbao itself is an outdoor art and architecture walk just waiting to be enjoyed. The green spaces, old buildings and churches, and various outdoor displays make this walk around the newer part of Bilbao a great introduction to the current culture of the city and finishes at the Guggenheim to top it all off.
Let's get started at the Jardines de Albia Lorategiak. Notice, most location names in Bilbao also come with a Basque translation. Bilbao is Bilbo, and this park is also called Albiako Loretegiak. Knowing both names can come in handy, as not all signs show both Spanish and Basque!
This is one of my favorite fountains ever. So simple, so serene, and I think a "raining umbrella" would be an excellent invention for hot days.
The Iglesia de San Vicente stands to the north of the park and welcomes visitors with its beautiful sculptures and gardens.
Making our way northwest on Colón de Larreátegui Kalea, we will soon end up in Jado Plaza with the Fuente de los Leones, the Fountain of the Lions.
Next steps are toward Moyua Plaza via Ercilla Kalea, where you will find this gem of a building called the Txabarri Jauregia, a former palace. The square is a hub for the west side of Bilbao with several bus stops, shops, and services available. It's also the easiest place to go to and from the Bilbao airport by bus.
After spending time walking around some busy city streets, we are going to head into the largest green space in Bilbao, the Casilda Iturrizar Parkea, just behind the Museum of Fine Arts.
Take your time wandering through this park to admire the interesting fountains, landscapes, birdlife, duck pond, and people.
As we reach an upward slope in the center of the park, we will be facing the Pergola del Parque de Doña Casilda. It's a quick minute to the shady portico area, overgrown beautifully with vines and mossy plants.
I especially liked the tiling on the floors and columns, and it is probably the best place to read a book and take an outdoor nap in Bilbao.
Leaving the Pergola area on the other side, pretty fountains await you as well as this detailed Estatua de Doña Casilda Iturrizar, the namesake of these gardens and the donor of the land.
As we exit the northwest side of the park, we head back into the city area, where we find the huge Palacio Euskalduna. This event venue has various artistic areas in the front, including this root-like mass. On the way toward the river, there is also an array of geometric street lights that seem to be fashioned after trees.
At this point, we cross the river Ría del Nervión O de Bilbao, peeking down to the left at the Maritime Museum and dockyards. But we are on our way to a more curious attraction: the Tigrearen Eraikina, more easily understood as the Tiger Building. The building was home to Correas el Tigre and built in 1941. The tiger was added in 1942, and stands out from all the rest of the buildings along the waterfront park area.
It's best to continue walking along this side of the river in our approach to the Guggenheim. We can cross the river on the pedestrian bridge of Pasarela Pedro Arrupe and have excellent views of the museum's twists, turns, and curves the whole way.
Going along the side to the front of the museum will bring us to the giant flower "Puppy" that is regularly tended to and updated with new colors.
Basque: Ongi etorri! English: Welcome! We have arrived at the Bilbao Guggenheim, and I do hope you have the time to enjoy the interior and art exhibits. When I went in early August, 2018, an absolutely majestic exhibit by Joana Vasconcelos called "I'm Your Mirror" was on display. I'm not one to really sink my teeth into modern art, but her pieces were awesome (Cinderella's coach reimagined as a helicopter, giant high heels made out of pots and lids, large gun made out of old dial-up telephones, an ironic chandelier that cracked me up, and the key piece of a larger-than-life masquerade mask made out of gorgeous antique-like mirrors). I'm positive whatever the Guggenheim puts on display has similar intensity and creativity and is not to be missed!
*Also, make sure you reserve your tickets in advance online if you do not want to wait around. Typically, the museum is most busy in the mornings and the crowds thin out a bit more in the afternoon.
