October 28, 2014

Act 1: Paris Sets the Stage

When I left La Fère at 5:15AM on Friday, October 17, I thought I'd be back on Monday. I ended up staying in Paris until Thursday.

So, to the long weekend that became a real week, thank you for surprising my October with perfect weather!

Everyone loves Paris in the fall.
I won't bore you with the tales of tutoring English on all of the weekdays, but know that I did have 9 French college juniors singing "I'm a Little Teapot," choreography and all. Not exactly part of the lesson plan, but they usually welcome the Swag curriculum supplements (Telephone Pictionary, 2 Up-2 Down, Johnny-Johnny-Whoop, Click-Click-Bang-Bang, and every other riddle from my NBC Camps days).

The best place for macarons in Le Marais is at "Boulangerie"
at the back of this square across Rue de Rivoli from the Hôtel de Ville.
On Friday, I had the cool opportunity to meet up with two other expats in Le Marais. I had hosted the Girl Gone International Instagram account for a week, and one of the subscribers (Lindsay, www.thirdcultureteacher.com) contacted me to meet up in Paris! We had a lot of fun exchanging stories, laughs, and advice over a great dinner. We parted ways around 9:30PM - plenty of time to meander the rues and avenues on my own.

My heart is happy when people enjoy Paris.
The air was cool, but comfortable, and tourists melded seamlessly with Parisians against the soft lights. Both are necessary to each other; they complete the canvas that is Paris.

I crossed bridges back and forth across Île de la Cité, nodding at Notre Dame and smiling at the coloring leaves. A couple asked me to take their picture. Young adults partied on the cobblestone banks of the Seine. Photographers, professional and amateur alike, were around every bend, capturing their favorite moments of the twilight.

Thankful for the sense of sight.
With free time, a quick step, and good weather, one can enjoy the company that is walking with Paris.

The Left Bank.
We would spend many hours walking this weekend.

The next day, Marc, Mike, and Daphne would all arrive to join me in the City of Lights...for Act 2: Symphony and Sport, and eventually, Act 3: The Palais Finale.

Continue »

October 23, 2014

London Makes a Great Date

Every time I've received the SNCF (France's national railway) deal emails about London, it's been impossible to go. Oh, volleyball. Oh, basketball. Oh, made plans to go somewhere else already. (Yes. Those are the only 3 things our lives really revolve around.)

But this time was different.

St. Pancras Station.
I opened my inbox in August, and ta-da! Go to London and back on the Eurostar for only 69€ each! If that sounds expensive to you, let's reflect on the fact that usually Eurostar tickets run at over 120€...each direction. We booked tickets to go on Wednesday morning and come back super early Thursday. Booked a night with an AirBnB location close to St. Pancras International. Booked dinner at Porter's and show at the Savoy.

Ready for our out-of-country date night?

We had an hour to kill before checking into our Eurostar train. (Always be sure to arrive at least 30 minutes prior to departure. They have customs and passport checks and everything.) Best way to kill an hour in Paris is always in a café.

Tea and coffee, merci!
We had a pretty simple agenda. Arrive in London. Check-in to the AirBnB hotel. Eat lunch. Take the tube to the Sherlock Holmes Museum. Return to hotel to get ready for dinner and the show. Sleep. Get back on the first Eurostar the next morning.

(We had a slight change of plans after we found out that - WHAT - my Uncle Mike and Aunt Daphne were also in London!!! So after the show, the plan evolved into spending time with them, too! We had even more great times with them during their following weekend in Paris, to be blogged soon! Independently planning trips to the same place at the same time is one of life's perfect surprises.)

221B, the setting of some
of the world's best mysteries.
The whole change-of-currency thing in London is so annoying. We took out some pounds, and swore we'd only spend that much. After paying for lunch, this meant that the 10£ or so each to go into the Sherlock museum was just not worth it to us. I mean, he never really existed, therefore, he never really lived there. We were totally satisfied by the gift shop and Victorian decor on the ground floor. Our £ budget thankfully kept us from buying every cap and pipe in the place.

What ended up being the main attraction of our afternoon was around the corner from Baker Street in Regent's Park.

Promenading through autumn.
I. Love. October.
They really do feed the birds. #MaryPoppins
Dramatic fountains are incredible.
The rose season was ending.
I'm happiest believing this is one giant rainbow tree. I want to build a rainbow fort inside of it.
The name of this gorgeous yellow rose is "Keep Smiling."
The overwhelming citrus scent is absolutely my favorite aroma of all time.
The colors were magnificent, and the rain held back
just long enough for us to see most of Regent's Park.
After marching around Regent's Park (more fun for me than Marc, but that's normal for us), we made it back to our AirBnB room to quickly get ready for our dinner and show. I was able to break out my bridesmaid dress from Lindsay's wedding, show off Great Aunt Wanda's black and pearl jewelry, sport my comfy black slingback heels, wrap a black scarf-shawl around my shoulders from another expat, and stay warm with my new-to-me charcoal wool coat from Poshmark.

We love the theatre!
Trying to pick a show we will both really love isn't always easy, but we chose to go see Dirty Rotten Scoundrels at the Savoy. We figured it would be a light-hearted and easy way to spend the evening, and it was! 

Too bad Beaumont-Sur-Mer isn't a real place!
The show itself was silly and ridiculous, but had a great twist, beautiful costumes, and, of course, exceptionally talented performers. We especially appreciated the French and American jokes, and the scene with the Oklahoma lady was outrageously hilarious because my uncle and aunt, who were sitting below us, are from...Oklahoma.

After the show, we all found each other (Marc, me, Uncle Mike, Aunt Daphne, and their two friends), and walked right over to the Savoy Hotel for drinks.

The Savoy is really nice. We were relieved that we had dressed up for the evening, and were able to fit in with the crowd in the Beaufort Bar. Talk about a snazzy establishment; the high walls and ceilings were painted black with gold accents, and the piano player and singer performed only classic Sinatra-era songs. 

I adore this coat. Oh, and the theatre was rad, too.
This was all really by accident. The only "Savoy" I'd ever heard of is the restaurant Uncle Mike always goes to for breakfast in Tulsa. I booked the show because of the show and the price, not because of the name of the theatre. 

This is just the hallway.
If Mike and Daphne hadn't been in London at the same time, I would have never thought to go into the hotel and find a bar inside. Turns out the Savoy has two bars, and the American Bar is supposedly much more famous and wonderful, but it was already packed out with show-goers.

This is just the bathroom.
We were all quite caught up in the atmosphere when I considered getting a cocktail. I read over the menu (easy when it's all in English), understood most of the ingredients (alcohol tastes won't ever be totally clear to me), and settled on the "Hemingway Daiquiri." I was nearly dissuaded from the "250" written next to it because it had what I believed to be the most calories out of all of the cocktails on the page (most were between 80 and 150).

Wait. 250 calories? Or 250 pounds?

After double-checking with Marc, I decided to go with the 10£ drink on the next page. It was definitely delicious, definitely non-alcoholic, and definitely not 250£.

We taxied back to our hotel room, took a 3-hour nap, and got up in the 4 o'clock hour to catch our Eurostar train back to Paris.

But our time with Mike & Daphne was just getting started...


London Makes a Great Date on iOS & Android
Find the rest of my navigational GPSmyCity app article cities HERE.

Continue »

October 18, 2014

Monthly Musings with Marc - October

FOOD-LOOSE AND FANCY FREE

Moving to France was a life-changing decision on many levels. One thing that might have changed the most is the quality of food, and that is a good thing for someone like myself. I love God, my wife, basketball, and food. Meat, veggies, carbs, sweets, etc., etc., etc. I like things steamed, fried, marinated, or raw, whatever. France has met all of my food needs - and then some - because of the amazing quality and incredible variety.

Market shopping on Rue Cler.
Macarons in Laon.
The French are extremely proud of their pastry rep. The macaron, croissant, eclair, and then thousands of other yummy treats. But instead of being over-priced or over-sized like most sweets I have experienced in my life, they are reasonable in every way imaginable and thus more enjoyable.

NYE 2013 Wine & Cheese Party.
If pride describes pastries, elite is where I would put the cheese in France. Entire rows in markets, whole shops, and complete fairs are devoted to cheese. Roquefort, chèvre, mimolette, and countless others I can't say or spell. It goes on crackers or sandwiches, it's served as a snack or dessert, and should always be properly matched with wine. (Speaking of wine, can it be included in a food blog? Most certainly, but it deserves it's own post, coming later.)

Turkish kebab.
Egg on pizza: brilliant!
For a quick meal, forget "fast food," in France it's much more acceptable to enjoy a baguette, pizza, or Turkish kebab. Acceptable, and much less greasy than anything I used to eat. 

Les Escargots.
Alex enjoying the duck.
Snacking on pastries, cheese with saucisse (sausage) and bread, or a simple plat du jour have become a part of life for Christy and me, but enjoying an authentic French meal can never be passed up. Start with escargot: garlic and pesto stuffed...snails. :) Awesome. For a main course, have the duck, duh. Or if you are more into veggies, salads never disappoint because they are always huge and filled with a great variety of food. When in certain parts of France, mainly the southwest, stews are more common, cassolet being the most famous. Meat & beans...yep. At the end, get one of those famous French pastries, or my favorite...a café gourmand, which is an assortment of mini desserts with an espresso. 

Cassolet in Toulouse.
Food is so awesome, especially when it's done well. The French take pride in their food and I love that about them. Eating out is great but the best part of enjoying food in France is going to the store or market and finding great, clean food that is well priced. You don't have to go to organic stores to find clean food! 

My Go-To Meal: Croque Madame.
France has changed my life in many ways, but one of the most significant ways is the role it's played in my weight loss. Dropping 40+ pounds is directly correlated to when we moved to France. 

I would like to conclude by saying to the French food obsession: merci beaucoup!
  
Continue »

October 12, 2014

Hello Bye Weekend

This year in my Nationale 2 pool (there are 4 pools in my division), we have 11 teams - which means every team gets two bye weekends. Excellent!

Tutoring English in Paris has started back up, and this bye weekend is definitely my calm before the storm of volleyball, English, and my other favorite pastime: travel!

La Rochette had a home match, so it was the perfect opportunity to once again re-visit the life and times of our first two years in France.


It was perfect.

(Minus the 2 1/2 hours on trains to get from Tergnier to Melun. But this is an accepted fact of living in La Fère, and the other things about it make it worthwhile.)


I took my time yesterday getting to my rendezvous with Monique. 


(You remember Monique, my French tutor who came all the way to California with us? Yes, she is still as classy and spunky as ever.)

I took the very long way to her apartment on Boulevard Victor Hugo, walking slowly down the quiet back streets and along the river Seine. The last time I had been on this part of the river, I was running for training. Now I could step slowly, pausing when I wanted, to collect my surroundings.


I finally stood in front of the chateau of Vaux-le-Penil and stared at it. There is something wonderful about getting to stare at something beautiful without having to awkwardly glance away when unwanted eye contact is made. The Seine rolled by and we both wondered who lived in the chateau once upon a time.
 

Crossing the two bridges over the island to the center of Melun brought many familiar scenes. The old church. The shoe store. The restaurants. I passed the flower shop. I turned back around. 

I wanted to blend into that scene.


The strange thing is, now I do blend into this scene. This scene of Melun - Paris - La Fère - France - Europe - it is my scene.

I'm a part of the still-shots. 

I belong in these frames. 


Monique and I went to La Crêperie. Marc and I miss this pink restaurant and its owner, Sandrine, very much. I used to call to make dinner reservations when we had friends visiting. I would say, "Bonjour, je voudrais faire une reservation." And the kind voice of Sandrine on the other end always replied, "Christy? Je connais ton accent!"

Sandrine made our Savoyarde and Mont Blanc crêpes.
I didn't even have to read the menu. That's how great this place is. If you visited us when we lived in Melun, you know, too. I ordered from memory, and the crêpes were just as perfect as I remembered them.

It is incredible how much more Monique and I have to talk about every time we see each other - because each new time I have that many more words in my vocabulary. Monique took me through a French book, to be sure, but I think the true value in our time together was our small talk before the lessons began. 


Who else was going to be willing to sit with me for hours and hours and just have a conversation?

This strikes me so deeply because I know how limited I was when I began communicating in my second language - mostly with hand gestures and sound effects because the words simply did not exist in my world yet.

My limits have been stretched, but I still have a long way to go. Am I fluent? No. There are distinct words, phrases, and conditional tenses that I just do not know. Don't even get me started on the masculine/feminine differentiation. I usually just try both "le" and "la" until the French person corrects me.

In America, we like to say we're conversational after 2 years of high school language classes. If we took 4 years - holy wow! We're totally fluent!

And yet how many conversations have we really had with a real person from that real place who speaks zero English?
 

"Fluency" is a grand word. 

It is much too grand for my level of French. I think my "fluency" is better understood as a percentage. I find I can communicate what I want to say effectively about 85% of the time. I can completely understand 75% of the French that is spoken to me.

Can we agree that I'm 80% fluent in French?

This 80% French of mine made going to La Rochette's 3-0 win today quite fun. So many dear old friends to talk to and laugh with on the recurring theme of, "How in the world were we friends before, when I couldn't speak French to save my life?!"  

Sure, I showed up with a disarming smile and the sunshine of California bursting from my soul. But more credit must be given to the people who have been stereotyped so wrongly. 


World, you've got to accept this and move on.

This is what I love the most about travel. It shatters stereotypes, and Mark Twain was on point when he said, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts." (Innocents Abroad)

Last week, we drove to Amiens to finish our residence permits. Our visas have been completed, and we were able to enjoy another French city in the process.

Amiens Cathedral
This week, we're taking the Eurostar to London for one night to catch a show. Next weekend, I play in Villejuif (SE Paris) against my American friend, Erika, and the team I tried out with last spring. My Uncle Mike and Aunt Daphne just happen to be in London this week also, and will be in Paris next weekend for my match - crazy and awesome!

Villejuif match is on Sunday, October 19, at 2:00PM. 
Gymnase Daniel Fery, 26 Rue François Billoux, Villejuif (Paris).

Throw in some English tutoring, and October will be over before we know it! 

We'll see if I can get that 80% French up to like 83% before the Christmas holiday - and before I have to reach way back into my brain to speak Spanish in Madrid and Málaga.

À bientot -or- hasta luego?
   
Continue »

October 2, 2014

10 Signs You're Not Coaching in America Anymore

My identity as a coach has been challenged often, was confused for a while, and has now generally stabilized here in France.

coaching
"WHAT ARE YOU DOING?!"
Here are the top 10 differences I've observed since taking up the French version of my coaching profession in 2011.

10. Practice "starts" at 6:00pm, which means kids will arrive anytime between 5:55pm and 6:45pm.

9. Nobody comes to the gym in their practice gear. Allot 10-15 minutes for locker room time as part of your practice plan.

8. I'm sorry, practice plan? Don't plan practice until warm-ups start. If you do it in advance, you're just going to have to change it anyway because some people will be there, and some people won't. Sometimes 6 months into season, a new random kid will show up. Awesome. Be ready for 16 to come to some practices, and 6 to come to others. By June, you'll be lucky if you still have 8 coming to games.

7. If a kid barely rolls their ankle, you will not see them for a minimum of 2 weeks. If they have a real injury, you will not see them for a minimum of 6 weeks. There is zero value in being at practice and listening/learning/helping.

coaching
I could have definitely used some help.
6. Teenage boys never shut up and are way more moody than teenage girls.

5. Two practices a week are apparently way too much to ask of a kid. I regularly let them know: don't ever try to play school sports in America.

4. It's just for fun. There's no varsity team to make, no scholarship to earn, and no reason to go outside of your comfort zone. And by "fun," I don't mean fun for coaches.

coaching
Timeouts are for photos! NOT!
3. The "Team/Family Identity" is nearly impossible to instill. When someone doesn't "want" to do what the rest of the team is doing (game, drill, exercise, whatever), they are benched the rest of practice. This does not usually affect them long term at all, but at least they won't be in the way of the activity anymore.

coaching
Team handstands were my epic success.
2. Cigarettes are the choice pre- and post-practice activity (for "athletes" sometimes as young as 14). Note to self: include sprints in every training.

1. Daily self-mantra for coaches?

"It's not me, it's you."

coaching
I thought the problem was me for way too long.
We didn't leave America because of the coaching. We loved coaching our sports and teams, and while we miss the intensity, commitment, and excitement of those jobs, we don't miss the workload. From the moment we woke up to the moment we fell asleep, we were constantly thinking about what needed to be done, how we could do it better, and we knew if we didn't do it, we would fall behind. It was all-consuming, and not in a good way.

coaching
Simpson University Women's Volleyball Program 2010
[Front row, L-R: Micaela, Jenny, Liz, Kelly T., KJ, Kelly B.
Back row, L-R: Team Dad Rich, Me, Manager Paige, Cashel, Jackie, Becca, Kaitlin,
Lauren, Chanel, Lindsay, Assistant Coach Sarah, Assistant Coach Brooke.]
We love the life outside of sports that France provides us, even if that means the coaching job side of things is severely lacking.

But you want to know the biggest difference between coaching in America and coaching in France?

America: 40-60 hours per week.

France: 4-14 hours per week.

coaching

It makes dealing with the other 10 differences not so difficult after all.

Continue »